Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Donostia-San Sebastian: Taking a stroll

The heart of the capital is the fairly recently pedestrianised Parte Vieja, a succession of shops, bars and restaurants where locals and visitors of all classes, ages and styles rub elbows.
Kontxako hondartza. Donostia. Eguraldi ona. Lorentxo Portularrume

Donostia-San Sebastian beach and harbour. Photo: EFE

The Parte Vieja has three buildings of historical interest: San Vicente church, a solid 16th century Gothic construction; the San Telmo Museum, a one-time Dominican convent now undergoing renovation; and the basilica of Santa María del Coro.

This area is likewise home of the remodelled Mercado de La Bretxa and the Plaza de la Constitución. The shelter of the harbour is shared by fishing and leisure vessels alike. Following the quay round to the end past a series of typical restaurants will bring us out at the Aquarium. The panoramic glass-covered tunnel running beneath the oceanarium is the most outstanding feature of a visit full of surprises.

Taking a stroll is one of the favourite local pastimes, and helps visitors to fully enjoy the city. Those wanting to go a bit further can follow the coastline via the over 7 km of maritime promenade without having to cross one single road. The two most classical stretches of this walk are the Paseo Nuevo and the Paseo de La Concha.

The former makes its way round Mount Urgull, and offers its most spectacular image during the September and October storms, when the waves come high over the sea wall. The peculiar tamarind trees, although correctly named tamarisk, and the classic railing lining the promenade are the most characteristic features of the Paseo de La Concha, which continues as far as the gardens and Paseo de Ondarreta. This promenade is rounded off with Eduardo Chillida’s Peine de los Vientos(The Windcomb) sculpture.

At the point where these two promenades meet, standing in beautiful gardens, is the English style Palacio de Miramar commissioned by Queen María Cristina. The Palacio de Aiete and Cristina-Enea Park are other breaths of fresh air. Passersby can also decide to follow the river Urumea, stroll around the centre’s pedestrian precincts with their many shops, the Plaza de Gipuzkoa or the renovated Boulevard, standing between the Parte Vieja and the new centre of this refined, moderate and cosmopolitan city.

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